Natural, cultured and imitation pearls

Natural pearls form without human intervention and are exceptionally rare. Most genuine pearls on today's market are cultured: they develop in a mollusc with help from a pearl farmer, but their nacre is real. Imitations are commonly made from coated glass, plastic or another material.

Visual inspection alone cannot always distinguish a natural pearl from a cultured one. Valuable pieces may require gemmological or laboratory examination.

What determines the value of real pearls

  • Lustre: fine pearls reflect light sharply and appear deep rather than dull.
  • Surface: minor natural marks are common, while heavy blemishes or damage reduce value.
  • Size: larger pearls tend to be rarer when other quality factors are equal.
  • Shape: round pearls are generally desirable, although fine baroque forms can also be valuable.
  • Colour and overtone: both the main colour and subtle secondary glow are considered.
  • Matching: strands are judged by how consistently their pearls work together.

Can you identify real pearls at home?

Under magnification, genuine nacre often has a finely irregular surface, while imitations may look unnaturally smooth. Drill holes can sometimes reveal a flaking coating on imitation pearls. We do not recommend the popular “tooth test”: it is not conclusive and may damage the surface or stringing.

Home checks are only a guide. A reliable valuation must include the whole piece, its metal, clasp, maker and documentation.

The clasp, maker and provenance can add value

A gold or platinum clasp, diamonds and other stones are assessed separately. A recognised maker, original box, receipt or certificate may also matter. Older pieces can carry additional period and design value.

How to prepare pearl jewellery for valuation

Do not chemically clean or restring pearls before the appointment. Bring the complete piece, loose pearls, clasp, box and all available documents. More guidance is available in how to prepare jewellery for valuation.

Pearl jewellery buying in Prague

We buy pearl necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, individually or as part of an estate. During a jewellery valuation, we assess the pearls, metal, clasp, additional stones and overall workmanship. Valuation at our Prague 1 shop is free and non-binding.