The most common forms of a "fake" gold ring

Several different situations hide under one label. The ring may be base metal covered only with a thin layer of gold, it may have a lower purity than the marking declares, or it may be another precious metal with a gold finish. A special category is a genuine gold ring with a repaired or replaced part made of a different alloy.

That is why it is wrong to decide only by the colour or a single number inside the band. The Czech Assay Office warns that falsely hallmarked gold products also occur, and their marks are hard for a layperson to recognize.

1. The number 585 is not the same as a hallmark

The marking 585 expresses the declared purity of 14-carat gold, 750 stands for 18 carats. It is only a fineness number, though. The state hallmark has a precisely defined shape, symbol and purity class number. It is the hallmark that represents official confirmation that the tested piece matched the respective purity.

Photograph the mark in macro mode and compare it with the valid hallmarks. A blurred, coarsely struck or nonsensically composed symbol is a reason for a professional check. At the same time, an old or small ring can have a worn mark and some legal exemptions may not be hallmarked at all.

2. Look for a different metal on the edges and inside the band

Gold plating wears first where the ring rubs against skin and surrounding objects: on the lower part of the band, on sharp edges, at the prongs holding the stone and around repairs. A silvery, coppery or brassy shade showing through may indicate a plated base metal.

A colour difference does not automatically mean a counterfeit, though. White gold is usually rhodium-plated, an older repair may have different solder, and the surface can be affected by cosmetics or dirt. Therefore do not polish or scratch the ring aggressively.

3. Pay attention to joints and construction

On a suspicious ring, a thin layer of surface metal, irregular bubbles, peeling or a too-sharp colour transition may sometimes be visible. Also check whether the marking is not only on a separate piece soldered to the band, or whether the hallmark does not belong to another part of the jewellery.

On a ring with a stone, assess the band and the crown separately. A stone, filling or hollow construction affects the weight and makes a simple home density calculation impossible.

4. A magnet and weight can reveal a fake, not confirm gold

A strong magnetic response of the whole band is a warning sign, because gold itself is not magnetic. A ring with no response, however, can be made of brass, copper or another non-magnetic alloy. The magnet therefore works only as a quick exclusion test.

A genuine solid gold ring is relatively heavy for its dimensions. A noticeably light piece may be hollow or made of a lighter metal, but without a comparable model no reliable conclusion can be drawn from the weight.

5. Origin and price are part of the assessment

Caution is appropriate with anonymous sales, missing information about the seller and a price significantly lower than the value of the declared gold. When buying, keep the item description and the receipt. With inherited jewellery, bring the original box, certificate, receipt or old photographs to the valuation if you have them.

What not to do at home

  • Do not scratch the ring on unglazed ceramic and do not file into the band.
  • Do not apply acids, bleach or other aggressive chemicals directly to the jewellery.
  • Do not heat it with a lighter; the solder, the stone and the surface finish can be damaged.
  • Do not break out the stone for weighing and do not take apart old marked pieces.

How to get certainty

An expert first assesses the construction, the marks and the surface, then chooses a suitable method to verify the metal. Only the combination of these steps makes it possible to distinguish solid gold, gold plating, another metal or a part with a different purity. On a more valuable ring, the stone, the maker's mark and any antique value are also assessed separately.

You can bring the ring for a free gold valuation in Prague. A safe procedure before your visit is also summarized in the article How to test gold at home safely.